Passeios e Viagens

Dicas e relatos de passeios e viagens de bicicleta

Bike Trip Italy - Day 10: Leaving Cortina D´Ampezzo, heading to Bolzano.

Bike Trip Italy - Day 10: Leaving Cortina D´Ampezzo, heading to Bolzano.

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Cold! Very cold! Ice on the road and grass with ice. Getting out of the Dolomites (on SS51) on the shaded side on  an early morning was an adventure. But thanks to having both of my hands pratically frozen, I decided to stop on the first plot with some sunlight that could possibly sell some hot chocolate. The bad news: The Café was closed (Sunday, as I just learned, many places do not open Sunday´s in this area). The great news: The place I chose to stop is a "must ride and must stop" for those in Cortina. The Dobbiano Lake is just 25km from Cortina and it offers a great view of its crystalline green water, reflecting the Dolomites.  A really beautiful scenery.

The second part of the ride was mainly on highways that cut through Brunico and Bressanone.  It was a light descend most of the way, so it was nice to be able to ride over 20km/h for an extended time.  SS51 and then SS49 cut through the mountains, but  in some case, actually 5, there are tunnels, which are not fun.  And I thing that bike are not allowed in most of them, however, the only sign they have at the tunnels´entrance is of a Bike and a Pedestrian, with no lines crossing them as if they were not allowed.

The third and last part was my favorite, as it was entirely along a really really nice cycle path. It started just after Breassanone and ended in Bolzano and lasted for about 40km.  The cycle path goes most of the way between the Isarco River and SS12, and also very close the Autostrada A22.  It cuts through a lot of vegetation and under a few cycle tunnels. This is "must ride" if you plan a trip around this area.

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Bike Trip Italia - Day 9: Passo Falzarego e Passo Valparola

Bike Trip Italia - Day 9: Passo Falzarego e Passo Valparola

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For those who love climbing, Cortina D´Ampezzo is a perfect place to spend a few days. Today´s ride was a 15km climb from Cortina (Cadin) up to Passo Falzarego and Passo Valparola. It´s a steady climb ranging from 5% do 12% gradient.  As stated in other posts, the views of the sharp edged mountains are amazing, and here you seen them from many different angles.

One of the different aspects of this ride is that is rides along and crosses many of the ski slopes, which today were very green grasses. It was neat to see all the ski lifts and imagine that in less than a month this place will be covered in snow and filled with skiers.

From Falzarego you can see the Cortina mountains, as well as the mountains towardas Arraba, some of which were completely covered with snow.  The mountains on the side of the Passo Valparola are completely different. The peaks seem to be very close together and they are not as sharp and do not reflect as many colors.  One thing that I noticed was that many hiking trails begin from the Passo Valparola, as there were many people getting ready to start hiking and trekking.

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Bike Trip Italy - Day 8: Misurina and Tre Cime Loop

Bike Trip Italy - Day 8: Misurina and Tre Cime Loop

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Cortina D´Ampezzo is the best place I have ever cycled in. The contrast of the multi-colored sharp edged mountains with the blue skies (yes, I was very lucky) and green and brown nature is simply amazing. It seems that every new view is the best view. I have never ridded in a place that I had to stop so many times for photos...and I kept on taking photos while cycling. 

 

Today´s route was a loop, a FANTASTIC loop. It started out north/east on SS51, then South/West on SP49. About half-way there is the peaceful and beautiful Misurina Lake, with an amazing view of the mountains in the background. It´s a great place for a break, to get something to drink and eat, and enjoy one of the best places this region has to offer.  Very close to the Misurina Lake is the climb to Tre Cime di Lavoredo. It´s a national park, which means that vehicles have to pay a charge to get in, but cyclists and pedestrians don´t. It´s a 7km ride, about 6,5km climb to reach Rifugio Auronzo. From there you can hop on trails (bikes are prohibited) to meander around.  This was the hardest climb I have ever faced. Although it is not very long, it is very steep and I thought that since I wasn´t carrying the panniers, I could climb with ease. What a mistake. As you get higher, the climb gets steeper, with the last 3-4km ranging from 12%-17% gradient. But as the climb gets steeper, the view gets better, and reaching the top is an incredible feeling.  The sense of accomplishment, combined with the astounding and beautiful scenery of the Cortina and Auronzo, made this the highlight of my trip so far.  It took me a few minutes to understand and realize the place that I was visiting, cycling in...it was a very emotional moment, in a very special trip.

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Bike Trip Italy - Day 7: Climbing the Dolomites | Belluno to Cortina D´Ampezzo

Bike Trip Italy - Day 7: Climbing the Dolomites | Belluno to Cortina D´Ampezzo

Details:

WOW!!! What a fun, enjoyable and AMAZING ride this was. My entire trip to Italy was decided based on the one thing only: Riding in the Dolomites. And I couldn´t have asked for a better day. Weather was perfect, the color of the mountains and the sky were unreal and the climb is a constant climb, which was a pleasant surprise, as I was expecting to suffer pulling the panniers on steep climbs.

 
I can divide the ride into 2 parts: #1) From Belluno to Pieve di Cadere, which is about halfway; and #2 From Pieve to Cortina D´Ampezzo.  The first 20km are mostly flat, and then an easy climb takes place for about 15km, until reaching Pieve.  The scenery changes drastically once I passed Pieve, as the peaks around Cortina D´Ampezzo become closer and closer, it seems that in each turn, a nicer angle, a more amazing view of the Dolomites takes place.  If you want to do an easy ride, with amazing views, try riding from Pieve to Cortina and you won´t be disappointed.  
 
It seems that there is a cycling project in place to ride up the Dolomites, which is called "Ciclables". I actually rode about 15km-20km overall on either bike paths for secondary roads marked as part of the bike path that ride to Cortina. But some of the parts were on dirt roads and other parts had more climbs, and I wasn´t sure exactly up to what point the path would go.  So I began riding on the SS51, which goes from just outside of Belluno to Cortina, and it was mostly a very enjoyable route. The only part that wasn´t fun at all was in the 3 tunnels. It didn´t seem dangerous at all, as I had rear lights and cars/ trucks/ buses respect cyclists (although a few like to check and see if their horn works), but it´s just not fun...especially when you know the views you are missing by being in a tunnel.
 
The arrival in Cortina is really really special....I rode around the tiny village and every turn I made I enjoyed the many peaks from different angles...amazing. Can´t wait to head out tomorrow morning to climb the peaks near by. WOW! What a ride...what a day! The Dolomites are even more amazing than what I had seen and hear.

One very funny and weird note:  For much of the part between Pieve and Cortina, I could have sworn that the road was descending, but I wasn´t able to go faster than 12km/h and the GPS kept on adding meters to the current elevation, so I was obviously climbing.
 

Overview:

Total time riding: 6:14h
Total time travelling: 7:10h
Total Ascent: 1.233 meters
Total distance: 83,4km

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